CNC Imprimée en 3D VS Aluminium de 16mm ?!

By | March 9, 2020


Video : Real speed
Feedrate : 1800mm/min
Spindle : 30000 RPM
Bit : 6 mm
Depth : 2 mm With Dust collector too high With Dust collector properly adjusted Much less dust Video : Real speed
Feedrate : 1000mm/min
Spindle : 10000 RPM
Bit : 3.175 mm 1 flute
Depth : 0.5 mm Video : Real speed
Feedrate : 1600mm/min
Spindle : 10000 RPM
Bit : 3.175 mm 1 flute
Depth : 0.5 mm Video : Real speed
Feedrate : 1800mm/min
Spindle : 60000 RPM
Bit : 6 mm 3 flutes
Depth : 0.3 mm Woops computer run out of battery… Lets retry ! Thanks for watching !

53 thoughts on “CNC Imprimée en 3D VS Aluminium de 16mm ?!

  1. Emre Mat Post author

    Çok sağlam tasarım elinize sağlık. Paylaştığınız için teşekkürler.

    Reply
  2. ron reynolds Post author

    Doing great with the nema17, are u still working on the nema23 updates tho?

    Reply
  3. Suelen Braga Post author

    I really like your CNC size. Could you please write down the size?

    Reply
  4. Chip Schnarel Post author

    Impressive cuts. Your design is really coming along well. Congratulations!

    Reply
  5. Drones Visions Aériennes Post author

    Belle video comme à ton habitude et assez proche pour avoir une reelle idee des pieces 3D ou celles realisées en CnC….à propos quel logiciel utilises tu pour la CnC …? je suis sous Inkscape pour le moment, j'ai essayé VCarve Pro ( mais QUEL PRIX..!! ) cambam me laisse un peu sur ma faim …ma CnC n'est pas pour le moment en GRBL et est connectée en USB et non Port parallèle….C'est un carte Chinoise USNCNC V 4….Merci à toi
    Philippe

    Reply
  6. Éric Marcadal Post author

    Très bien cette vidéo. Question dimensions est-ce que tu as tenu les côtes ? Ou il y a de grosses différences entre le dessin et la pièce ? Et l'équerrage ? je parle de l'usinage de l'aluminium.

    Reply
  7. Axel Sixtysix Post author

    Forcement la qualité de coupe n'est pas là sur l'alu, malgré les passes minuscules à 0.3mm. le problème des pièces imprimées en 3D c'est qu'elles ne sont pas assez rigides dès qu'il y a des efforts importants. Même avec des pièces imprimées en remplissage 100%, elles se tordent ou vibrent sous l'effort. Donc tu es cantonné à prendre de toutes petites passes, il n'y a pas de secret. Qui dit petites passes dit temps d'usinage allongé, ce que la défonceuse ne va pas apprécier longtemps. Si les CNC pro sont en acier, avec des guides prismatiques, des vis à billes et des grosses broches, c'est pas pour rien… Et forcement, ça a un coût.

    Reply
  8. WDX666 Post author

    First Aluminium cut should be a Plate for higher Z axle.
    Great work so far.

    Reply
  9. Wietse Delclef Post author

    How do you reach speeds of 1800 mm/min? Mine goes max at 600mm/min.

    Reply
  10. Derek Ward Post author

    I'm curious what the accuracy of the cuts were.

    Reply
  11. PEANUT3D Post author

    Ce travail 😍
    Je veux la même chez moi maintenant

    Reply
  12. Marco Bassini Post author

    Great!!! You are a GENIUS!!! Very impressive

    Reply
  13. olgemaba007 Post author

    Super machine, merci encore pour ton travail, vraiment ! je veux faire la meme !! Mais j’attend la page thingiverse pour dl les pieces,
    Penses tu faire une notice de montage ou seule ta video est suffisante ???

    Reply
  14. gannas42 Post author

    Thank you for sharing progress on this project! It would be nice if you could share more of the mistakes/failures as well as the successes.

    Reply
  15. La Nature 1 Post author

    Well done I'm working on this same unit I hope mine turn out as tuff as yours thanks for sharing

    Reply
  16. misteragony Post author

    Nice! What kind of glass were you cutting? I did a similar test on my rs-cnc32 and molten glass stuck to the bit. I then tried cooling everything with a very soapy emulsion which helped a bit, but it got very messy. Impressive speeds by the way. I only tned to cut wood at 800mm/min, I have yet to try aluminum.

    Reply
  17. Bastien Hieyte Post author

    Magnifique. Grâce a ta création et tes tutos je vais pouvoir assembler cette machine et tailler dans la masse pour des proto pour ma moto électrique. J'ai été maté de la pub mais c'est super long😅 je vais faire un quelque chose des que je peux car c'est mérité ! Merci et bonne continuation.

    Reply
  18. soya lunik Post author

    Encore du super travail !!! Bien joué, tu ne donnes pas de cœur de modélisation sur pc par hasard ? 😊

    Reply
  19. José Pedro Filipe Post author

    I have been meaning to ask you if the Heavy CNC would cut metal. You read my mind 🙂
    Merci beaucoup.

    Reply
  20. Dolf J.v.Rensburg Post author

    Looking great!! good luck and seeing forward for next videos! well done.

    Reply
  21. Michael Lysgaard Post author

    Will you share your toolholders on your website?

    Reply
  22. flo ren Post author

    hello, bah toujours aussi cool, va vraiment falloir que je m'en fabrique une (je bave^^), merci pour ton partage de connaissance!!!

    Reply
  23. Dark Winter Post author

    What kind of filament did you use to make the printed parts?

    Reply
  24. vadulkin Post author

    Сделай самый дешевый и крепкий чпу с помощью 3d принтера из алюминиевой трубы)) Видео класс!!

    Reply
  25. lolo lolo Post author

    vraiment sympa ! moi qui suis usineur sur CNC depuis plus de 20 ans 😉 une idée du cout de revient total de la machine ? ca me donnerai presque l envie de m en bricoler une pour découper mes meubles audiophile ! a lolo

    Reply
  26. Nikita Post author

    Можно добавить щётку и слабую пружинку для насадки, чтобы она прижималась к заготовке и предотвращала разбрасывание стружки.

    Reply
  27. evn153 Post author

    You should be able to reduce chatter by using shorter tools, allowing the unsupported tool to stick out only as much as necessary. Using trochoidal/adaptive toolpaths should also help your tools to last much longer by distributing the wear over a much larger length of the flutes. I'd bet you could make those same cuts in aluminum at 6mm depth-of-cut and 0.5 mm stepover. This is the same material removal rate as your current settings, but the wear is ~12x less concentrated.

    Adding easily-removable tabs in CAM will keep the part from being being completely cut free, avoiding damage by the still-spinning cutter. It should also eliminate the need for your part to drop away, and for your workholding to leave the center of the material unsupported. Supporting the center of your material will further reduce chatter.

    Reply
  28. sebastien chedal-bornu Post author

    A 7:13 on dirait que le côté supérieur est incurvé (peut arriver a cause de legere souplesse de la cnc) non ?

    Reply
  29. sebastien chedal-bornu Post author

    Deux question tu as le lien vers ta mèche 3 flûtes 6mm ?
    Et 60k RPM sur ta Makita ? Heuuuu ce n'est pas possible.

    Reply
  30. Mike Post author

    With such a strong gantry, I would start changing out all the plastic parts for aluminum. Rigidity is the game, even for wood. I would also stop suspending stock in air. Again for rigidity. That chatter can't be fun. With that said, great work on your project!!

    Reply
  31. Peter Pham Post author

    is .3MM depth the best this machine can do for aluminium? It that because of the plastics 3D parts making it not so ridge? I really like this design..

    Reply
  32. Ferdz Reyes Post author

    Nice mounts for the material. Can you please share the links?

    Reply
  33. Przemysław Jakubczak Post author

    Nice!!! this is a very powerfull machine – for a DIY at least.

    Reply
  34. Tom V Post author

    Super travail! Aurais-tu les liens pour les fraises acrylique et aluminium que tu utilises? Autre question: l'acrylique est coulé ou extrudé? Merci d'avance 🙂

    Reply
  35. Benoit WERY Post author

    Génial votre projet, je suis en cours d'installation d'une CNC avec vos idées. Félicitations de votre projet, vidéos et partage. A votre avis peut-on mettre un module laser 15w avec le même programme ? bien à vous.

    Reply
  36. Robin Tomaz Post author

    where can i get the cad of the 3d printed work holder? I would love to use that design!

    Reply
  37. John Colvin Post author

    Really great! You must be very pleased with it. Looking at the aluminium results, I think the machine is working well, but I wondered if the "feathering" around the top edge of the cut is because the aluminium is soft, not a "free-machining" grade such as 6061? I really like a single-flute cutter in aluminium… there is more space for air so it runs cooler, and more space for chips to escape, so there is less "chip welding" onto the cutter. With 6061 and a single flute cutter, blow the chips with compressed air and you would not need lubricant.
    Love your videos, thank you very much!

    Reply
  38. didiersee Post author

    Super. Quel logiciel utilisez-vous pour dessiner vos pièces et générer le Gcode?

    Reply
  39. olivier nouguier Post author

    Salut,
    1800 mm/min ? Tu n'as pas de décrochage à cette vitesse ? Merci

    Reply
  40. mac laplomb Post author

    Impressionnant l'usinage de l'aluminium Super machine 👍

    Reply
  41. alex chiosso Post author

    I wish to be as smart as you are …. The material holders are very nice and well designed. Great job well done and great video as well. Peace 🙂

    Reply
  42. Richard Cordner Post author

    I have a tip for you. Blow air on that bit while you are cutting. Its more effective than WD40 and cleaner. You can get small pumps that will make compressed air without noise, and articulating nozzle. Point the stream of air RIGHT at the cutting cool all the time. It will make a big difference.

    Reply
  43. Durahl Post author

    IMHO, I think milling your stock in the air sitting on those 3D Printed plastic blocks is a terrible design choice…

    Reply
  44. Xander Snyder Post author

    A recommendation for your machining process in Fusion360, add tabs when you are finishing your part before moving to CAM.

    This keeps the work piece from dropping out when the milling operation is complete.

    You will have to cut the tabs out and de burr the piece, but you will not run the risk of the part breaking away and impacting your endmill.

    Reply
  45. Kim J Post author

    amazing, I see you have upgraded z axis :), I like to ask you on how the router get cooled? how long the shelf life of the router is compared to the spindle?

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *